Buck Brand Citrus: A Passion for Flavor
Located in Terrabella, California, on 270 acres of hillside property, Deer Creek Heights Ranch is home to the line of organic citrus marketed under the Buck Brand label, which boasts a wide range of citrus. From more familiar varieties to fruits unique to this ranch, OGC is proud to have sourced this special fruit line for the last ten years, with exclusive distribution of Buck Brand in the Pacific Northwest. Each season we look forward to the numerous, nuanced varieties, all of impeccable taste and quality.
Deer Creek Heights Ranch and accompanying Buck Brand were the brainchild of the husband and wife team of Lisle and Mary Lou Babcock. The two grew up in the area and were intimately familiar with its arid landscape. When they acquired the ranch, they took on the responsibility of tending to the groves of Navel oranges onsite, with trees dating back to 1908! With a strong crop of heirloom Navels as the base for his enterprise, Lisle went about the task of expanding his varieties.
While some growers choose to partner with research universities to identify the most viable stock for their climate and systematically plant trials vetted through the institution, Lisle opted for a more adventurous approach.
“He would plant trials based on historical information he could find about the variety,” Don Mayfield, OGC’s Citrus Buyer, explains. “He’d find a nursery that carried something he was interested in, plant three or four, and if it seemed they might work, plant 10 or 20 more. Or, in some cases, five acres more. Lisle wasn’t afraid to gamble.”
Through his willingness to experiment, Lisle established groves of lesser-known grapefruits such as Melogold and Oro Blanco that didn’t previously have a wide market presence up to that point. The same could be said of Finger Limes, which Lisle planted on a hunch, not knowing that in a decade or so, that unusual fruit would become the darling of the culinary industry for its punchy addition of flavor to oysters, desserts and cocktails.
He was also willing to do various trials with his trees. Taking a sport from one tree, and grafting it to a rootstock just out of curiosity, is the type of experimentation that eventually led to the creation of the well-loved Lou Lou Navel. Named after Mary Lou, who like the fruit, Lisle mused is “sweet and smooth.”
“Lisle was passionate about his work. He made choices on gut and feelings, and he was big on flavor,” recounts Don.
Lisle’s curiosity and allegiance to superior flavor have established Buck Brand as not only one of the most reliable sources for specialty citrus around but also one of the few remaining growers that still use old school packing techniques.
Unwavering in its commitment to flavor, Buck Brand citrus is dry-packed using horsehair brushes instead of modern techniques that utilize water and chlorine baths with added wax. While the latter may prolong the fruit’s shelf-life, it compromises the eating experience, hampering the fruit’s natural oils’ ability to escape as you peel or cut into it. Additionally, by buffing the fruit and preserving the oils, the fruit retains the correct balance of sugar and its flavor integrity.
Already this year, OGC has enjoyed sharing Buck Brand’s organic African Shaddock pummelos, Cara Cara, Heirloom and Lou Lou navels, along with some less familiar varieties like Sweet Limes. We’ve also experienced numerous, nuanced varieties of mandarins; Lee, Lee Nova Cross, Algerian, just to name a few. Coming on now are Seedless Lemons and a larger-sized, delicious variety of kumquat, the Centennial. But, for the citrus fanatics among us, one of the favorite varieties from Buck Brand is just around the corner.
TDE Mandarins, a triple cross between Temple Tangor, Dancy and Encore mandarins, stand out amongst the “small, round, orange things.” The TDE is an easy-peeling, seedless variety that segments easily. Its rich tangy flesh is super juicy, high in sugar, and with balanced acidity. It’s as flavorful a mandarin as you can hope for, and it’s one that OGC looks forward to every year.
“OGC’s long-standing relationship with the ranch in Terrabella, and our exclusive on marketing the Buck Brand in the Pacific Northwest, are key factors in why OGC is the Northwest’s best source for organic citrus,” shares OGC’s Senior Sales Manager, Kristi Yoder. “There are so many fun, unique varieties to introduce to eaters, including the fan-favorite, TDE!”
With the first harvest expected to start in less than two weeks, TDE mandarins are starting late this year in lower volumes but will be fully on in March. Expect to see the TDE available for approximately eight weeks, and do take advantage of them while they’re available! This variety is known to be scooped up by the stack due to their following here in the Northwest.
OGC looks forward to the next few months of eating delicious organic varietal citrus from Buck Brand, all the way through June when Midknight Valencias will mark the end of the ranch’s season! Stay tuned as we continue to taste our way through citrus season!